Behind a rather unprepossessing exterior, Bibi opens up like a fable in the 1001 Arabian Nights. Owner Reza decided after some years in Baku that what the city really needed was a decent Persian restaurant and Bibi is the fruit of all his labour. Pleasingly popular with Persian ex-pats, Bibi is a wonderful mix of East and West, with rush-matted ceilings, great chandeliers, kilims on walls and curious portraits of Europeans, in partly Asiatic dress. The meal starts with an enormous puffed up Persian lavash, or flatbread, shiny with butter and dotted with black poppy seeds. Many great Persian dishes share a common ancestor with Azeri cuisine, so be on the look-out for a Persian take on chicken with walnuts and pomegranate, best served with barberry rice. Be sure and stay for tea and hunks of delicious honeyed preserved quince after your meal too.