In the middle of Amsterdam’s tiny Chinatown, Bird stands out from a bevy of distinctly average Thai and Chinese restaurants that have generally opted for inoffensive westernized staples over genuine culinary sparkle. Though, the conservatism of Bird’s neighbours is unsurprising given the mix of nationalities and tastes that stumble along Zeedijk. The interior is cosy, with lots of dark wood and a convivial hum of happy chatter regardless of the hour or which of the three rooms you eat in. Service is disinterested, and comes from teens who would probably rather be elsewhere. The food, however, is generally decent, from the tod man pla to the massaman kai.