The original Soho branch of Bodean’s is set over two floors, the ground floor given over to a take away/deli setup and downstairs to tartan-carpeted, mostly boothed, restaurant with peppy service and antler horn lamps. Happily standards have not slipped since the recent opening of three other branches in south, west and east London and this remains Bodean’s mothership. Sod the not-so-special starters and instead pig-out on the mains: slabs of ribs (baby back or spare), pulled pork (also served as sandwich in soft white roll and called a ‘Boston Butt’) and the occasional pleasure of ‘Burnt Ends’ (slow smoked bites of beef brisket, which are only available on Mondays and Wednesdays) all of which are served with coleslaw and BBQ beans. Home to homesick Americans glued to odd sports on the 42 plasma screen and hungry Soho types.