With a resume that includes a spell at the helm of New Orleans institution Galatoire’s, it’s safe to say that big things were expected of the venture that followed for Chef Brian Landry. And he didn’t disappoint. His modern Louisiana seafood restaurant, Borgne, which he opened with Chef John Besh, is essentially a love song to the state’s coastal region, with a few nods towards Isleño influences (a cuisine cooked up in nearby St. Bernard Parish by immigrants from the Spanish Canary Islands).
The menu showcases all the New Orleans classics, from gumbo and crawfish (depending on the season) to red beans and rice. And even though seafood at Borgne is given pride of place, there are plenty of delicious meaty options as well, including some superlative fried chicken and moreish hangar steak served with duck fat fingerling potatoes and sauce vierge. But don’t miss the chance to try some of Landry’s unique dishes. Now he’s the chef in his own kitchen, Landry’s creativity has been given free reign, and delicious dishes like Whole Seafood Stuffed Flounder (meltingly tender flounder stuffed with a compelling mixture of shrimp and crab) and Black Drum A La Plancha (served with brown butter, pecans, and fantastically fresh jumbo lump crab) abound.
Found at the revitalised Hyatt Regency in New Orleans’ Warehouse District, Borgne has a cool, airy feel to it, making it an ideal retreat from the balmy Louisiana weather. And a couple of craft beers or a perfectly mixed, perfectly potent barrel-aged cocktail from the curated drinks list should complete the cool-down nicely.