Once an abandoned palazzo with non-profit social activist intentions, the space has seen a restyling in recent years with modern lighting and bar area. The initial anti-establishment philosophy has remained, with a prolific agenda of theatre, dance, video-art and multi-media events combined with banging club nights hosting US, European and Japanese acts and DJs. The crowd is impossibly cool, but if you’re not well versed on Bolivian socio-economic politics it’s best to avoid striking up a conversation with the bearded revellers – you may feel out of your depth. This is a place for specialists, musically and culturally. Firewater Wednesday nights see DJs from Layo and Bushwacka to Groove Armada grace the decks. For dance music aficionados, Friday hosts the legendary Agatha party, Saturday is Micro-house, and Thursday the One Love Hi Pawa party with dance hall and reggae. It’s urban and unostentatious, with not a whiff of Cavalli in sight, but the drawback is that since it’s all the way out on the Via Salaria you will need a taxi to get you there.