For ethnic restaurants in Milan to succeed, they need five-star gloss. rnrnThai restaurant Bussarakham (meaning ‘topaz’) has left nothing to chance, opening in spring 2004 as a sumptuous wooden palace filled with ornately carved teak furniture, tropical palms and orchids, gold fabrics and stencilled walls, and oriental waitresses who bow on your arrival, promptly deliver prawn crackers, and attend to whims like first-class air-hostesses. rnrnThe food is surprisingly undiluted with kicking curries and authentic flavours, all garnished with exotic flowers and served on traditional mint green varnished ceramics. Seating 100, it’s good for groups, and with lots of carved wooden partitions and strategic foliage, can also be romantic and tranquil; the soundtrack swings between Buddha Bar lounge music and traditional Thai love songs. rnrnUpstairs is a cute beach-hut-style room where diners hunker down on triangular mats at low tables with recessed footwells; here the Milanese are likely to leave veteran backpackers to it.