Down by the water at Circular Quay in Sydney, you can make believe you’re in France. The Cafe Ananas does much of the heavy lifting for you – the striped awning, the light, bright colour palette that takes your mind to the Cote d’Azur. And, of course, the menu.

All the French classics are here. You can enjoy escargots, perfectly tender duck confit, chicken liver parfait, and moules frites (given a little aromatic hit from fresh thyme). Or you could take your meal by way of Italy with a bowl of Champagne risotto, or Morocco with the spiced lamb shoulder with apricots. It’s up to you – as the Cajun saying on Cafe Ananas’ glass partition encourages, in well-scripted gilt lettering, “Laissez les bons temps rouler”.

Anyone familiar with the space from its previous inhabitant, the Cafe Nice, will be happy to know that the pineapples survived the move. Indeed, they’ve been inscribed into the new name, Cafe Ananas. Just look up from your table – they’re up there, casting a warm glow over the chic space as light fixtures.

If you want to bring your meal back round to France (the international dishes are pretty tempting), Cafe Ananas has a delectable selection of Champagnes on offer, available by the bottle, the magnum, and the jeroboam. Let the good times roll, indeed.