If you’re in search of a midnight snack more substantial than a hot-dog and tastier than yesterday’s bread, head for this classy backroom bar on the Rua de São Bento. Far more up-market than nearby Snob, it has the same gentleman’s club feel.

From the outside, frosted windows and the crisp clinking of crystal wine glasses can be intimidating. But the doorbell entry system is simply for show: practically anyone can get in. Popular with politicians from the parliament buildings over the road, the bar is famous for its late-night bife a marrare steaks, served until 1am.

As the café has been in business for 22 years, it’s a dish they’ve had time to perfect. Of late, the bar has fallen into favour with the city’s rich kids, who bring light relief to the stuffy surroundings.