Real Marrakech cafe’s like Cafe des Epices, which is set snugly into a corner of the old spice market where old women gather to sell knitted woolly hats and older men sit and sell spices, is the perfect spot for taking a break from the heat and hassle of the souks. Cafe des Epices has three floors, including a refreshing roof terrace that affords good views across the Medina, and is basic but charming, with terracotta and white walls, small chalked menus on wooden tables and a narrow stairwell that runs up the side. The menu at Cafe des Epices is correspondingly simple – fresh juices, teas and coffees, a smattering of sandwiches, the occasional omelette, salads – but the staff (mostly young, internationally minded men, very healthy since they have to run up and down the narrow stairs all day) emit a down-to-earth, genuine friendliness; and with sandwiches going for 30dh, salads for 40dh and simple breakfasts available from 9am this is a definite boon for the Medina. Grab a table downstairs or near a window on the second floor if you want to watch the ever-colourful comings and goings of the spice market.