The Rival is one of the best hotels in town, and the neighbouring café is equally popular. Despite being large, it’s often full (though you can usually find some quieter space in the upper level). The weekend brunch is particularly popular. Ask for the Café Frukost: Greek yoghurt with walnuts and honey, a large savoury scone, some slices of cheese, a boiled egg, a tube of Kalles Caviar (Swedish fish paste that you’ll either love or hate), plus orange juice and tea or coffee.
rnThe best time to visit is in the summer, when you can sit outside and enjoy the view of the square, and watch the locals popping into the excellent Rival Bakery to buy loaves. One slight drawback is the glacially slow service. When it gets busy the tables quickly get cluttered with dirty dishes that the staff don’t seem in any hurry to remove.