Entering Caravansera is like entering another era. A restaurant since 1973, the 14th century caravansera is a courtyard with a central water fountain – where your camel would have been tethered back in the day – with 15 original, private dining rooms recessed into the walls around. Across the street is the overflow restaurant, which has a huge subterranean communal dining room, with the most amazing, vast beaten copper door on a central hinge upon which it pivots. Each of the private rooms is lined with wonderful ceramic tiles and glorious textiles and the tables laid with starched white linen. It is a shame, then, that the food and service nothing like match the absolute singularity of the atmosphere. Adequately prepared dishes have a tendency all to arrive at once, so it is as well to order in stages. Flaming torch-lit live music on a Sunday evening adds to the ambience.