Ceyazir is the preserve of off-duty architects, creatives and various other aesthetes, and it’s not hard to fathom why. Occupying almost every floor of a 1901 bourgeois mansion – which started life as the local Italian school – it surrounds the intelligent drinker with fine lines, lots of light and loads of good taste. The Nordic-style long bar is incongruous but remains its many residents favourite drinking place: a bare wood plinth lined with stools, staffed by an acquiescent barman and a DJ with a penchant for Jimmy Cliff. In the lounge area a dozen comfortably knackered armchairs sit on period tiles – sit in one of these and you’ll never rise again. A fine if pricey contemporary Turkish restaurant serves mains in a delightful salon and dishes up wonderful snacks throughout the building, including in the shady summer garden.