The name seems pretty obvious once ensconced in this Aladdin’s cave of resplendent baroque décor and fine dining, letting you forget you’re in one of Milan’s restaurants. Crystal chandeliers are ubiquitous in Milan but Chandelier wins the crown of one-upmanship with this outrageous temple of overstatement: rows of flickering chandeliers and candelabras, sweeping Swarovski crystal curtains, vast gilt thrones adorned with cherubs, and enough mirrors to satisfy the neediest of narcissists.
rnIf you can’t take the visual assault, there is a cooler green zone; if you want it all, you can – from its pricey store, ‘Chandelier Charm’, just up the street (all is designed by owner and interior designer Antonio Coppola). Fashionable showfood, with wanton ingredients such as foïe gras and champagne, complements a modern Italian menu; reassuringly cool waiters behave as if they would rather be elsewhere.
rnIts critics would too – and it is a case of love it or loathe it – they say overpriced, underwhelmed. We say go with a sense of humour – and a tiara.