One of the pioneers (and still one of the leaders) of Istanbul’s super-fashionable fusion cuisine revolution, Changa is a destination station for Istanbul’s smart set. Through the imposing entrance of a beautifully-detailed Art Nouveau building in the large and unlovely Siraselviler Caddesi, you’ll find this slick, contemporary restaurant occupying several floors. Diners on the ground level will not only enjoy propping up the long, stylish bar, but also watching the kitchen staff at work in the basement below, thanks to the large Perspex porthole thoughtfully positioned into the floor. It provides a visceral reminder of the harsh reality of socio-economic relations (Upstairs, Downstairs, anyone?) but is eye-catching nonetheless. The menu, created by famed Kiwi fusion chef Peter Gordon, mixes South East Asian and Turkish tastes and ingredients. Grilled octopus with red miso and nori sauce, slow-cooked beef cheeks with goat’s milk yoghurt and gremolata, and chilli-poached pears with buffalo milk mastic are just three of the inspiring choices.