Chez Marianne is an institution in the trendy Jewish quarter, which is centred round the rue des Rosiers in the Marais and always buzzing with life. Apart from the terrace seating outside, the restaurant comprises two separate rooms across two buildings, one of which looks more like a wine cellar. The menu combines a mix of Jewish, Mediterranean and Eastern European dishes. Following the mezze tradition, you may choose a mixture of zakouski (snacks), priced according to the number of dishes you select. The falafel tastes best in pitta sandwiches served from the kiosk on the street, accompanied by oily aubergines and hummus and tahini sauce – perfect as a kebab replacement. If you don’t want to risk spilling it all down your front, you can sit at a table – but there is an extra charge for this. Customers return time and again, so the staff seem to think they can afford to be a bit brash and very slow, but the really great thing about Chez Marianne is you can eat at any time of day.