Omar was hotly trendy for a while, and still holds its own during Paris Fashion Week. The queues may have diminished, but it’s still a buzzing, relaxed place to come for huge, fluffy mounds of correctly made couscous and trencherman’s portions of roasted meat. The venerably scruffy dining room, with its wooden panelling, matching chairs and paper tablecloths, is full of happy noise, orchestrated charmingly by friendly waiters; on the zinc bar stand fresh flowers (from the market on rue de Bretagne, one of the oldest in Paris). You’re not really here for the starters; rather, order a couscous royale to share – you get the grain, the veg, and a great platter of lamb, chicken and merguez sausages. Puddings include a ‘mystery’ ice-cream and wonderful pastries from La Bague de Kenza on the rue St-Maur. Chez Omar is great for groups, fine if you’re on your own, but not so great for a tête a tête. No credit cards.