Chef Claudio Aprile is Toronto’s answer to Heston Blumenthal, and this is where he performs his molecular gastronomy theatrics. Upbeat music pervades a starkly modern Toronto restaurant – a long marbled bar leads to a moody room, with strip lighting slit into giant picture frames. No white tablecloths, comfy chairs or plump cushions – this is a science lesson we’re supposed to pay attention to.
And it’s not hard to appreciate the alchemy of black cod, saikyo miso and scallion sauce adorned with perfect spheres of puffed tapioca. With traditional ideas deconstructed and divided on the plate, the immaculate presentation is startling, with leafy garnishes placed with precision. If you go, go all-out with the tasting menu ($99 for ten courses).
For the final spectacle, the waiter pours cream into a silver bowl of liquid nitrogen and churns it into ice-cream as dry ice emanates across the table and onto your lap.