Located in a tiny alley bordered on one side by the crumbling wall of a medieval church and crammed with hidden ateliers and tiny boutiques, this famous Italian restaurant complements its setting. Be warned, however, that you can walk past this celebrated alleyway a hundred times if you didn’t know it was there. It would be hard to find a more romantic spot for dinner, inside an ancient building decorated in a rustic, Renaissance style opposite a wall covered with 14th-century marble tombstones.
rnA heavy wooden door opens into the warm glow of the Italian bar, where staff will direct you upstairs to the restaurant or seat you in the cosy café downstairs. Upstairs there are two rooms: a smart, stylish area more suited to formal or corporate dinners, and a second cosier, wood-beamed room with pretty stencil murals. Controvento is famous for its excellent food, its atmosphere and its international staff and clientele.
rnIt’s owned by real Italians, a rarity in the Tallinn restaurant business, but the kitchen today is run by three chefs – from Italy, Peru and Ecuador. The menu is versatile enough for all budgets, from simple pasta dishes to four-course feasts with truffles. Make sure you book in advance.