Inside the decor is simple and fairly cramped, with shared banquette seating, but the no-booking policy still makes tables hard to guarantee. The ever-evolving selection of wines is one of the best in the city and affords plenty of experimentation. Salads, cheeses and cold meats are the speciality here, and satisfying and hearty pasta and rice dishes from northern Italy provide excellent winter comfort food. Ask for a menu in English to navigate your way through the bounteous selection of cheeses and cold cuts, and also bear in mind that the lentil soup is extraordinarily good after a night of elegant, Rome-style excess.