Da Enzo al 29
When dining out in Rome, you should really try crema di peperoni (pasta with creamed red pepper sauce), the exquisite signature dish at Da Enzo al 29, or maybe some of the traditional Roman classics that have simple, predominant flavours (such as penne all’amatriciana). Bowls of pasta arrive on the table in never-decreasing mountains, so don’t expect an express meal but instead enjoy watching a cast of fellow diners who wouldn’t seem out of place in a Fellini film. Wash it all down with some honest table wine and save room for some of the best tiramisu in Rome. Don’t be put off by the brusque and surly service – it’s all part of the experience; just be surly back and you’ll earn their respect. Take a peek into the kitchen to see worryingly large monoliths of meat in preparation, and finally we’ve a word of warning: do not attempt lunch here if you have a busy afternoon of sightseeing. You won’t make it past the Isola Tiberina before needing a rest.