Take some sequined belly dancers, add exotic drummers and singers, summon a retinue of fez-hatted, babouche-soled waiters laden with tagines of couscous and silver pots of mint tea, scatter rose petals liberally about a gold mosaic floor and finish with a puff on the hookah – and there you will be eating Moroccan in Milan but feeling like you’re in Las Vegas.

Opened in winter 2004, Dar el Yacout (meaning ‘house of gold’) took four years to build – it now stands as a Moroccan paradise on three floors thematically filled with eight-point stars, waterfalls, lanterns, stained glass, intricately carved furniture and rose incense.

Unless you specify, you’ll be ushered into a ceremonial six-course set menu on the ground floor where the waiters have been known to lose count of how many courses have been delivered, although this is the best spot to view the belly dancing on a central glass-covered aquamarine fountain. A la carte is available on the first floor (the second floor is a salon privé and cigar club).