No one comes to Defune for the ambience and it’s unlikely that you will run into any supermodels, actors, footballers, pop stars or celebrities of any description. Add to that an interior that’s not terribly glamourous – if anything it’s a bit ho-hum. So what does this longstanding Marylebone Japanese share with starry Nobu? If you’re not careful when you’re ordering, it can get cripplingly expensive. If that’s a worry, steer for the set menus. With a loyal Japanese staff and clientele, Defune produces some of the best authentic Japanese food on offer anywhere in London. Avoid the downstairs dining room at all costs, particularly if you’re prone to depression. The ground-floor sushi bar is where it’s at, and where both Giles Coren and restaurateur Alan Yau enjoy taking in the skill of the chefs silently at work, slicing fish for sashimi and carefully assembling various sushi rolls.