The menu changes frequently at Destroyer. The opening times are scant, and none at all at the weekends. And there’s little available parking. Does anyone care? Not a jot. Diners are willing to hoof it across LA to Culver City whenever and eat whatever chef Jordan Kahn fancies cooking. Lines and inconvenient parking pale in comparison to the Scandinavian-style fare on offer here.
It’s hardly surprising given Kahn’s background; he’s worked in the kitchens of American culinary royalty, from French Laundry to Alinea. And while his own restaurant, Red Medicine, was not fated to stand the test of time, it was a glorious venture while it lasted. At Destroyer, Kahn does what he does best – cook. Set against Destroyer’s minimalist interiors (it’s all-white as far as the eye can see), the dishes on offer sing out. This spot has obvious Instagrammable appeal.
Serving breakfast and lunch during the week, you can expect dishes with undeniable Nordic flair, like a raw oatmeal bowl, with almond milk, redcurrants and vanilla. Or Icelandic rye bread with cultured butter and preserves. Roasted cauliflower with poached egg, black garlic and chicken skin. And marinated mushrooms, spelt, arugula, fresh cheese and seeds. But don’t let the perceived simplicity fool you, these dishes are revelatory. That’s why you’ll want to get there earlier than you need to eat – there might be a wait. Once you’ve dined here, you’ll understand why.