No one was surprised when Andrew Tarlow and Mark Firth took a stab at opening an ambitious eatery in a circa 1920s Kullman diner car in quirky Williamsburg. What was surprising was how great the food turned out to be, and how good it has remained a decade later after all the hoopla wore off.

Chef Caroline Fidanza’s dishes are a favorite of chef Ralf Kuettel of Trestle on Tenth, as well as Francine Stephens and chef Andrew Feinberg of Franny’s fame, and while the staples always remain the same for those of you who crave consistency (roasted chicken, cassoulet, and other like-minded heart-warmers) the specials always dazzle. If there are mussels, get them. She does a version with fennel and pork sausage that will have you stealing bread from your dining partner to sop up all that savory, white wine-based broth in the bottom of the bowl.