Domenica, the latest venture by celebrity chef John Besh, captures the two sides of Italy. First, the food is rustic: the meats are cured in-house, the stracci comes with oxtail ragù and fried chicken livers, and dessert can be as simple as sweet risotto with dried fruits. The décor, however, embraces Italy’s lust for high design. The walls are dark, rich wood, and the large space – located off the lobby of the Roosevelt – is divided by chain-mail curtains and lit with sculptural lamps. Waiters in paisley shirts attend to guests ranging from office workers at noon to elegant diners at night.