At long last, the Upper West Side is getting its share of buzzworthy restaurants. Case in point: Dovetail, a sophisticated bi-level beauty from chef-proprietor John Fraser, located right by the American Museum of Natural History. Fraser creates elegant food that comes from the heart. Sauteed foie gras arrives with graham crackers and huckleberries. Soft shell crab tempura is spiked with chai spice and aioli. Fraser’s not afraid to put buffalo on his menu, and his Columbia River salmon with garlic and green gazpacho is a dream. Such fine fare needed a worthy venue, and architect Richard Bloch delivered, incorporating floor-to-ceiling windows with sheer drapes, maple panels, and brick columns in the main dining room. The private room, a sherry cellar that seats 20, is exquisite, incorporating the building’s support structure to great effect.