Another grand old-timer, this one a magnificent, masculine brasserie dating from 1880, Drouant hasn’t been allowed to become a dusty relic, thanks to the intervention of Alsatian superchef Antoine Westermann, who also runs Mon Vieil Ami on the Ile St Louis. He does playful things to classical cuisine, especially with the starters and puddings, which often come as multiple takes on one idea, be it Asian beef salad or leek vinaigrette. The interior has been sleekly revamped in golden-yellow tones, with glossy black lamps; the names inscribed around the façade are all past winners of the Goncourt Prize, whose judges have been deliberating at Drouant for decades. It’s very establishment, very upscale, and very Paris.