Peeking out of a green window on the main drag of Nanluoguxiang’s winding alleys, E-Mai serves up some of the best waffles in town. This is a perfect place for a sugar rush as you browse through the so hip it hurts boutiques on either side of the street. Waffles can be lathered with hot Nutella or various flavors of ice cream (go local and try the Green Tea). The ice cream is packed so thick between the sides of the waffle, that it might more accurately be described as a waffle sandwich. You can watch the Chinese owner pour the batter onto the iron, take the golden brown waffles off the griddle and fold them into white paper packets. There a few seats inside but the real treat is wandering through the hútong while munching on sugary goodness. There is also good coffee and hot chocolate to take away.