The Ivy, Gordon Ramsay, Pellicci – three of the most oversubscribed restaurants in London. The similarity ends there – Pellicci sits firmly, and proudly, at the silly-cheap end. It also trumps them both on history, having been run by the Italian/cockney Pellicci family since 1900. Team Pellicci now comprises the octogenarian Nevio (born upstairs, no less), his wife Maria and their adult children Nevio Junior and Anna; every day Nevio leaves after the lunch rush to a round of hearty applause. ‘Mama’ cooks – English breakfasts, meat and two veg, steamed sponge puddings, and a fair bit of Italian pasta – while the others serve and exchange wisecracks and football scores (Spurs supporters get special attention). With your meal comes instant community, which previously has included the Kray brothers, Eastenders actors and footballers – just ask to see Nevio Junior’s autograph book. It’s just as well there’s no alcohol licence – Pellicci can’t take much more buzz: zone out from the chatter and clatter by admiring its 1940s Grade II listed Art Deco marquetry and stained-glass windows. No wonder all eyes are on Nevio Junior and Anna to further the family line.