“Inside the boroughs, [it’s] the restaurant I would leave Manhattan for,” says Louis Rozzo, a man who does not take good meals lightly. Egg is, indeed, as the name suggests a breakfast-y kind of spot, with tummy-fillers like Anson Mills organic grits ‘n’ eggs and the best buttermilk biscuits and pork-sausage gravy you’re likely to find this side of the Mason Dixon.

It’s the kind of the stuff that makes you want to throw you’re bowl of Special K out the window of a speeding car, never to be eaten again, dammit! And those golden buttermilk orbs that feature so prominently in the early hours come back again and again at every meal, thank goodness, because they go really, really well with the crispy, crunchy cholesterol-shmesterol fried chicken and the kick-ass slow-cooked duck with rice mixed all up with fig, garlic, bacon, and onion. But to have all this southern-tinged goodness, bring cash – Egg does not accept plastic.