At Eleven 79, Sinatra and Dean Martin croon on the stereo, whilst the menu – which is classic Italian-American – offers meals like veal Milanese, pasta Bolognese, and fresh Gulf fish with lemon butter and tapenade. And the location, almost under the expressway and surrounded by working warehouses, can’t help but make you think of a clubhouse where goodfellows eat. The well-dressed diners who frequent this elegant trattoria probably made their money in more legitimate enterprises. They still appreciate the need for a discreet hideaway.