Small, stylish, perfectly placed and fairly priced, the Empress Zoe is one of the best options in the Old City for visitors who can’t afford or don’t want something as expensive or as formal as the Four Seasons. Named after a famous 11th-century Byzantine empress who chomped through a succession of lovers and husbands over her lifetime, the hotel has 22 rooms, which are clean, prettily decorated and uncluttered – handy, because they’re a smidge on the small side. You’re better off spending time in the romantic, beautiful and leafy back garden, where you can rest and relax amid the ruins of a 15th-century hamam. Alternatively, you can dawdle on the rooftop terrace, which has superb views. The hotel is within hailing distance of the local mosque, so bring earplugs unless you fancy waking up with the faithful at dawn.