Hg2 : The Hedonist

Erenler Aile Çay Bahçesi

Nargile (hookah) smoking, callow-pretentious student-style naffness in the West, was, until recently, just lamely old-fashioned in Turkey. Now it’s going through a resurgence, which means your obligatory nargile experience won’t be as embarrassing as it would have been even a few years ago. Symptomatic of this casual movement of the fickle hand of fashion is the breakdown of the customers at Erenler Aile Çay Bahçesi, who, despite being right next to the Grand Bazaar, are more local than foreign. Set in the atmospheric courtyard of an old Ottoman seminary, it’s a good place to be, especially as dusk falls. Sip tea and fill up on toasted cheese sandwiches. For a slightly hipper nargile experience, try the numerous beanbag-decked cafés that cluster together off Tophane Iskelesi behind the Nusretiye Mosque, near the Bosphorus waterfront in the southeast of Beyoglu.

‚orlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi 36/28, Yenieriler Caddesi,
+90 212 511 8853
Opening Times
daily, 7am-midnight (3am in the summer)
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