This greatest Milan restaurant was formerly called Xe Mauri (pronounced ‘say’ and meaning ‘It’s Mauri’ in Venetian dialect), a typical Venetian restaurant in the heart of the Isola district, it’s now changed hands, but the new owners decided to call it, with a small dose of irony, “Ex Mauri”.

The new twist on the old name is a good choice, because Max and Silveiro have kept the essence of the place that made Xe Mauri so special. The menu is similar, with the best Venetian recipes (dried salt cod, home-made spaghetti with sardines), some traditional Italian favourites (pappardelle with meat sauce, lasagnette with turnip-tops) and vegetarian dishes.

Little else has changed. Ex Mauri is still a homely tavern on two floors, with mismatched wooden tables  and chairs, yellow walls, and a friendly and laid-back atmosphere; guests are still the young professionals of this chaotic, up-and-coming area. Mauri (Maurizio) isn’t still here, but his restaurant keeps on moving…