Navigate your way through fish entrails and fruit just off Via Andrea Doria’s colourful, odiferous outdoor market and enter the unstuffy and relaxing loft space. Run by two brothers and a sister, inside it is kitted out with monthly art shows from international artists. Exposed air vents and the central wooden bar give it a Manhattan feel, but vintage touches such as bonbons on the counter and an old set of weighing scales recall the family’s patisserie past. ‘High tea’ is restyled and served from 9pm, whereas brunch at the weekends is a satisfying buffet served till the civilized hour of 4pm, with a live jazz accompaniment. The comforting beverages on offer range from hot chocolate with Baileys to rum and hazelnut coffees, or stop by when there’s an evening vernissage and choose from margaritas, pina coladas, an ample selection of wines from every region of Italy and an eye-watering collection of grappas.