Simon Rogan was tempted out of his Cumbrian stronghold of Cartmel and his award-winning L’Enclume to start up Fera, his London restaurant at Claridges hotel. The purple opulence of Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant has long disappeared and has been replaced by a deconstructed return to nature – the colour palate is a muted grey and green (stone and moss) with organic patterns on the floor and walls and a sculptural tree providing an attractive centrepiece. The menu at Fera is all about the best of seasonal and local produce, which is then combined subtly and intricately to create the most delicate, flavour-infused dishes. This is supremely intelligent modern British cooking at its finest; and unsurprisingly, there’s a quite a steep price to pay for the privilege of dining at Fera,  although the set lunch does provide great value for those not quite attuned to the fiscally dizzy heights of Claridges.