Local celeb chef Melissa Perello (of Charles Nob Hill fame) has gone downscale-artisanal at Frances, which serves Californian cuisine and is the best of all restaurants in the Castro, the San Francisco neighbourhood most in need of a culinary revitalisation. The small menu (only four mains) is seasonal and very local, and includes food from purveyors such as County Line Harvest (chicories) and Iacopi Farms (Brussels sprouts). The long, narrow dining room is lined with tables on both sides, but is so gracious that it somehow doesn’t feel crowded. Paul Einbund, formerly a sommelier at Coi, heads up an innovative wine program.

Photos: Jennifer Yin