Like a lumberjack’s lounge bar – all wooden planks and chunky industrial steel furniture – Fresco Art has applied the same winning formula as its sister bars in Milan, ATM and Fresco: fast service, quality aperitivo and fresh fruit cocktails in stylish surroundings (conker-coloured leather sofas, moulded steel stools and teak tables on wheels for easy rearranging).

The cool crowd has taken the bait and comes here pre-Plastic (see Party). The ‘Art’ part does not, sadly, involve a modern Michelangelo masterpiece – it’s actually no different from many bars here: a monthly changing exhibition by young artists who get to exhibit their work for free (it’s also free decoration for the bars); but at least Fresco’s alliance with the Instituto Italiano della Fotografia ensures a good standard.

With its uninspired chill-out soundtrack, you might like to seek refuge on the pavement in the summer, when Fresco Art’s capacity is doubled, not least by judges and lawyers from the nearby Palazzo di Giustizia.