You can almost smell the mahogany panelling and racing green leather upholstery at this St James’ establishment that’s proudly Establishment. Sure, most of the ‘discerning clientele’ are bufferish gents who left their youth behind them – long ago in a land far away – but for many that only adds to its clubbable charms. Within one of its banquetted booths, feels Patrick Williams, chef-proprietor of The Terrace, is the perfect place to have a discreet dinner discussion. Presided over by likeable toff restaurateur Simon Parker Bowles, who opened it in 1982, the classic fish focused menu has been out of fashion for so long that parts of it, jellied ham hock, potted shrimp and grilled Dover sole, feel very now. Service is of the old school, to suit the setting, and the wine list is, in places, surprisingly affordable.