A religious attitude remains, perhaps from its former occupant, but now devotions are fixed firmly on the wine – drinking in Rome at Il Goccetto is the aim of the day, rather than anything more holy. As welcome to the serious buff as to those looking for a quick swig before supper, Il Goccetto has an atmospheric, slightly French feel, with wooden barrels, original beams and gothic-looking lanterns. Seating is casual, with a few scattered tables on the inside among the shelves of bottles, while locals and smokers linger on the steps outside. Plates of cold cuts of meats and cheeses are on offer to accompany your evening tipple and the vibe is relaxing, mellow and somewhat contemplative, suiting its grown-up clientele.