Today’s crowd are mostly those clinging on by their decaying talons to that bygone era of decadent Roman nightlife, but remarkably it’s still quite a laugh. The music is an entertaining selection of 1970s commercial to contemporary chart. It’s so cheesy that some promoters have taken to it with postmodern ironic glee, taking the opportunity to organize one-off parties for trendier types. But on every other night it’s a staunch brigade of polo necks and blazers, fur coats and hairspray, and discreet, if sneering barmen. Brilliant for not changing one little bit.