Annisa chef Anita Lo calls this tiny sushi spot worthy of epicurean worship, and certainly Jewel Bako is successful proof of the big-things-in-small-packages theory, and maybe one of the only eateries you’ll find where the bar might be roomier than the dining room. But what they lack in space they make up for in outstanding sushi and pretty, compact details.

Small and demure as it is (which should be an immediate signal to you to make a reservation if you want to go; walk-ins are likely to be turned away), the dining room is a show-stopper, with its glowing, tunnel-like shape, bended bamboo-reed ceiling, and soft-neutral-tone banquettes. Start off with the sweet-salty king salmon slowly simmered in a sea-urchin braise and silky white miso soup, and then surrender to the call of the large and lusty Japanese snow-crab makimono with kani miso and avocado.