Follow Istanbul’s Turkish tourists who make a beeline to Karaköy Güllüoglu on a baklava pilgrimage, emerging with box upon box of goodies for friends and family back home. This waterside neighbourhood has been synonymous with baklava since 1949, when Mustafa Güllü left his native Gaziantep to open up his own shop here. Today, Karaköy Güllüoglu’s specialties remain walnut and pistachio baklava, created by interspersing dozens of famously ultra-light layers of pastry with butter and nuts. The börek – savoury pastry stuffed with spinach, cheese, potatoes or beef – makes for a very tasty, speedy breakfast, too.