Kaspar’s Seafood Bar & Grill
Located within the hallowed halls of London’s Savoy Hotel, Kaspar’s Seafood Bar & Grill has reinvented the old River Restaurant in a glitzy new guise. Designed according to the hotel’s Art Deco aesthetic, a large central bar dominates the space, studded with shards of Murano glass and adorned with platters of fresh seafood on ice. Gone are the starched white tablecloths and in their place appears an array of polished dark wood tables, teal leather armchairs and a central patch of shiny black and gold tiling that somehow resembles fish scales; the high-heeled should approach with the caution of Bambi on ice.
An approachable all-day menu of seasonal delights covers a bewildering array of bases, from pan-roasted scallops and lobster bisque to wiener schnitzel, beef burgers and seafood laksa. With so much choice it’s easy to end up with a rather incoherent meal (good luck to the sommelier), but choose wisely and the varied skills at this kitchen can be made to shine. Particular highlights include the wild sea bass ceviche served in delicate slithers with red onions, chilli and a coriander and lime dressing, and the braised pork belly with mushrooms and cipollini onions.