If Austin Powers were a Frenchman – and let’s face it, he would be a slightly more refined version of our famous Anglophone – he would be dining at the ultra-lounge Kodo. Comfortable 1960s-style red and white leather cup chairs surround tables set with designer cutlery and brilliantly comic, wonky glasses, while the walls have built-in lava lamps to stare at if conversation runs dry. A long red leather banquette stretches seductively along one wall, teardrop chandeliers hover overhead and orange LED lights on the floor guide you to the blue-lit loos, where the communal, ultra-modern basins are softened by candlelight. The cuisine is a successful fusion of French and Italian that comes neatly presented in the smallest of portions, and the bar serves up a selection of fantastically crafted cocktails. It’s well worth coming for dinner after 9.30pm, when the music is turned up and the mixed 20- to 40-something crowd spills in.