The best time of day to visit Kok Tobe is in the evening, when the sunset behind the mountains provides a spectacular backdrop to dinner. There are a few restaurants at Kok Tobe – a hill on the south-eastern outskirts of the city – but the others leave rather a lot to be desired. The Grill has recently been given a makeover, although that doesn’t say a huge amount, but the day bed and beanbag strewn terrace, complete with wafting fabrics, is a lovely place to soak in the sights with a shisha. The terrace is cantilevered out over the edge of the hill and provides the best view in the house. The menu offers the usual mixture of local and European dishes – all with a side portion of panorama. Live music takes place at the weekends, making this a chilled-out space away from the hustle and bustle of the city below.