From the moment it opened as a new spot for dining out in San Francisco, the city embraced the rustic, Greek restaurant Kokkari for its warm, woodsy, sepia-toned atmosphere, its delicious food, and above all, its fresh perspective on the culinary scene. Greek restaurants conjure images of group dancing and tables lofted in the air à la Zorba. Not at elegant Kokkari. The emphasis is on hospitality, not attitude, as demonstrated by the 20-foot family table. Enter the rustic setting-Arts and Crafts meets Shaker, plus modern sophistication-and you enter a fantasy where the artisan foods runneth over. Feta, olives, lamb, filo pies, stuffed grape leaves, meatballs, octopus, and crab are all of the best quality and done to perfection.