If you want to experience eating in San Francisco the way Japanese connoisseurs like it, visit Kyo-Ya. The setting is subdued and quiet, a fitting complement to the highly traditional and precisely rendered cuisine. By cuisine, we mean more than sushi, though the sushi is excellent. Order a noodle soup, tempura, or teriyaki and you will understand why this is considered one of the city’s premier Japanese restaurants. Try a set dinner to get the chef’s take on a meal, complete with Japanese-style pickles. Japanese businessmen frequent Kyo-Ya, as do other expense account executives who take their sushi seriously. It’s not about ambiance. The Kyo-Ya space is quiet, serene, almost plain. Japanese businessmen make Kyo-Ya their home away from home, knowing the prices keep casual sushi fans at bay and the décor prevents hipsters from lingering. Only serious sushi connoisseurs need apply. “Challenge your palate with the kaiseki dinner menu, a six-course “odyssey of flavors, textures, and colors” that changes monthly.