New Orleans has gone mad for gelato, with new gelaterias threatening to soon outnumber po’ boy shops and all-night bars. Among the newcomers, La Divina makes the purest product. It uses local, hormone-free milk, fruit from the farmers’ market, and bowls that are biodegradable. Despite the modern concern with organic food, the gelateria has old-world charm. In the afternoons, mothers sample the latest gourmet flavour while their kids play. In the evening, young couples stop in after dinner for dessert or a well-made shot of espresso.