Even some of the most jaded Parisians de souche find themselves weak with nostalgia at the mention of La Mascotte, so authentic is its old-school atmos, and so appealing are its fittings and fixtures – including the waiters. For those after an unpretentious
feed-up with a side order of unremarked-upon eccentricity (plus live accordion tunes on Sundays), it’s the tops. Nothing about the art deco dining room has been significantly updated since time immemorial, from oyster stand to lobster tank. The food is even-tempered brasserie fare; you can’t go far wrong if you stick to aforementioned Atlantic bivalves, crustacea and a nice Pouilly Fumé. Puddings tend to be doused in strong liquor, even sometimes the Berthillon ices. A relic to relish.